hotels in middletown ri

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Alexander Inn
Alexander’s Inn
653 Washington St., Cape May
(609) 884-2555
Appetizers: $8.95 to $25.95
Entrees: $29.95 to $43.95
8 rooms, 2 suites, $129 to $159
Frenchtown Inn dining room.
The Frenchtown Inn
7 Bridge St., Frenchtown
(908) 996-3300
Appetizers: $6.50 to $11.50
Entrées: $23.95 to $36
Perryville Inn
The Perryville Inn
167 Perryville Rd., Perryville
(908) 730-9500
Appetizers: $7 to $13.75
Entrées: $24.50-$34
theperryvilleinn.com

Paul Ingenito is no stranger to trendy, cutting-edge cuisine. The Culinary Institute of America-trained chef spent most of his career in Manhattan, where he was on hand when Larry Forgione started his restaurant An American Place. Ingenito was in the kitchen at the legendary Russian Tea Room until that restaurant closed, and after that he helped to reopen Maxim’s as chef de cuisine.

But soon after marrying his wife, Lorraine, the chef found himself drawn back to his home turf (he’s a native of Basking Ridge). It was on a whirlwind weekend tour of his former stomping ground that they discovered the Perryville Inn. The couple bought the inn in 1998, leaving the Manhattan restaurant scene — and Lorraine’s job as personal assistant to hotelier Ian Schrager. “It was some kind of destiny or fate — we really weren’t planning on it,” says Ingenito, whose cuisine has earned high marks from critics throughout the state.

The transition from the urban Manhattan scene to a circa 1813 inn wasn’t a tough one for Ingenito. He has assumed the mantle of the historic property without a backward glance, charmed by its Federal style brick architecture and colorful history. (In previous lives, the inn served as the township’s headquarters, a roadside tavern and a private residence.)

Although his address has changed, Ingenito’s cuisine is still uptown — classic, bold, layered with intense flavors presented in disarmingly straightforward style. “The overall experience here is fine dining in a relaxed country setting,” says the chef. “This is our home. We live here, and we try to treat our guests with the same kind of hospitality as we would entertain guests in our living room.”

That hospitality is apparent, upstairs in the cigar-friendly lounge, with its buttery leather furniture, and in the three dining rooms, where four working fireplaces create a warming glow. Ingenito’s only regret is that he doesn’t have the space to add guest suites — the addition of the gastro pub Brick Tavern in an expanded bar area will have to do for now.

Try this holiday special: Maine lobster with savory lobster bread pudding and vanilla chive sauce.

By Beth D'Addono